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Whether you’re keen to combat frequent breakouts or searching for a dependable remedy to treat oily skin, look no further than salicylic acid. This powerful chemical exfoliator sinks deep into your skin to tackle these issues at their source while keeping redness at bay, paving the way for luminous, clear skin.
However, you can have too much of a good thing, so we’ve enlisted the experts to discuss the benefits, explains potential side effects and share usage guidelines for adding to salicylic acid to your skincare routine.
Here, Dr Maryam Zamani, oculoplastic surgeon and aesthetic doctor at the Cadogan Clinic, Dr Shaaira Nasir, consultant dermatologist at Sk:n; and Dr Nitasha Buldeo, scientist and founder of Organic Apoteke explain how to get the most from this product:
What is salicylic acid?
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), which is a type of exfoliating acid. The other type is AHA, or alpha hydroxy acid, and this includes ingredients such as glycolic and lactic acid.
Derived from willow bark or produced synthetically, salicylic acid has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, says Dr Zamani.
It’s also a salicylate, which puts it in the same family as aspirin, says Dr Buldeo. ‘If you are allergic to aspirin, you should avoid salicylic acid,’ she warns.
As a BHA, salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate the skin at a deeper level than water-soluble AHA ingredients.
What are the benefits of salicylic acid for the skin?
Anyone can use salicylic acid, but it’s especially useful for people with oily or acne-prone skin. Here’s what it can do:
- • Penetrates deep into pores
- • Loosens dead skin cells
- • Clears clogged pores
- • Reduces sebum secretion
- • Reduces inflammation and redness
- • Helps to break down pimples and comedones
Salicylic acid improves the skin’s appearance, reduces blemishes and helps to prevent blackheads and breakouts.
Salicylic acid for acne
As it’s oil-soluble, salicylic acid can penetrate down into pores and dissolve excess sebum and debris, making it ideal for oily and acne-prone skin,’ explains Dr Zamani. It also regulates oil production.’
‘An anti-inflammatory effect can help skin to look less red and inflamed,’ she continues. ‘The general exfoliating effect will help the skin look brighter and smoother and allow other skincare products to penetrate the skin more effectively.’
Salicylic acid as an exfoliant
Salicylic acid is keratolytic, which means that it breaks down keratin, says Dr Nasir. Keratin is the main protein in your skin and it makes up your skin barrier – the outermost layer. ‘Salicylic acid helps remove dead skin cells by chemically exfoliating the top layer of skin,’ she says.
Salicylic acid for blackheads and whiteheads
Blackhead and whiteheads form when excess oil mixes with dead skin cells and forms a plug that clogs a pore. Due to its keratolytic properties, salicylic acid delves deep into skin to dissolve the plugs.
What products contain salicylic acid?
Salicylic acid can be found in face washes, toners, leave on spot treatments, moisturisers, face masks and plasters.
‘It’s also used in treatments to reduce thickened skin in conditions like psoriasis, keratosis pilaris, calluses, corn or wart treatments,’ says Dr Nasir.
How to apply salicylic acid
Salicylic acid is best incorporated into a cleanser for gentle exfoliation, or a treatment serum designed to keep blemish-prone skin balanced and under control, says Dr Zamani. If using the latter, be sure to only apply the serum directly to the area you want to treat – don’t slather it all over.
For those with sensitive skin, daily or regular use can potentially dry out or even damage the skin barrier, so keep an eye out for flaky skin or any signs of irritation. ‘More sensitive skin types should use with caution and increase usage as their tolerance builds,’ she continues. ‘SPF must also be used during the day, as with any exfoliating treatment.’
Who should avoid salicylic acid?
No matter what your skin type is, avoid layering salicylic acid with any other acid-containing products without consulting an expert first. ‘They can cause burns, damage or scarring if used incorrectly,’ says Dr Buldeo. Similarly, you should also be mindful of the other active ingredients – such as retinols and antioxidants – in your skincare products.
‘Some of these ingredients can intensify the effects of some acids causing burning or scarring,’ she continues. ‘Allow your skin to work with a single active ingredient at a time. This reduces the risk of overstimulation or adverse reactions.’
Ideally, you should consult an expert before incorporating chemical exfoliants into your skincare routine. ‘It's essential that you take advice from an expert before using acids or chemical peeling products on a regular basis,’ Dr Buldeo continues. ‘Do not overuse your acid-based products.’
Salicylic acid side effects and dangers
The most common side effect is irritation. If you experience any of the following, stop using salicylic acid immediately and consult your doctor or dermatologist.
- • Burning or tingling skin
- • Dryness
- • Redness
- • Peeling
‘If applied in large amounts, high percentages, and to large surface areas, there is a chance of salicylic acid overdose,’ Dr Nasir warns. When used as a standalone product, salicylic acid can be found in varying concentrations usually between 0.5 to 2 per cent.